Bailen Jewelers Custom Design Page

Custom Design

Our jeweler, Thang So Ngo, specializes in custom and original designs. In order to present his one-of-a-kind creations to the public, he introduced his exclusive "BREAK THE MOLD" series in March, 1998. Every three months, a custom-designed, handmade piece of jewelry, which will be signed and guaranteed for uniqueness, will be offered by Bailen Jewelers.

All of the pieces displayed in this site are Ngo's original work. The ring shown at right (side and top view) is an example of the intricate style of his unique designs. If you would like to have your own custom design, click here for more information.

The Basic Elements of Custom Jewelry Design

When designing a custom piece of jewelry, it is very important to keep in mind the basic elements that comprise a wearable work of art. The designer must consider three major elements: the raw materials (stones and metals), the type of stone setting, and the form or style of jewelry.

Stones and Metals

The choice of stones and the metal is very important, and is mainly dictated by the individual taste of the designer. Are diamonds or colored stones preferred? Will the shape be round and brilliant, emerald, princess, oval, marquis, baguette, or fancier shapes like trillion and semi-circle? Finally, has the range of colors in stones like tanzanite, diamonds, topaz, sapphire, or tourmaline been considered?

Once the stones have been chosen, the combination of the stones and style often determine the type of metal. Platinum, the ultimate in metal, most securely holds precious stones because of its toughness. Platinum is forever, unlike white gold or silver, which change color over time. Yellow gold can also beautifully set off the stones and style of a piece. In concentrations of 14K and 18K, gold is hard enough to hold stones securely.

Although the choice of metal may be based on an economic decision, the bulk of the cost for custom-made jewelry is actually for the labor. However, the designer should be aware that a piece constructed with platinum is 15-30% more expensive than a piece made with 18K gold, which is 15-30% more expensive than jewelry made with 14K gold.

Stone Settings

The stone setting involved in the design is the area where customers need the most advice from a jeweler. Some settings are more secure than others, while some enhance the display of the stone. Stone setting options are listed below.

Bezel (a lip of metal around the perimeter of the stone)
Prong (usually four or six)
Scoring (a flush-mount appearance achieved with an opening in the metal that has a pre-formed lip similar to the bezel setting)
Pavé (French for pavement, the stones, usually smaller in size, cover the surface of the metal; "artificial" prongs, or beads, are pushed up around the stones.)
Channel (a series of stones, usually two or more of a round, princess, or baguette shape, are encased in a linear "channel" of metal).

Form or Style

The form or style of a piece completes the overall appearance. Some things to consider are how the piece complements others in a jewelry "wardrobe," how it blends with overall personal style, and how it fits a particular body type. Jewelry can be bold or delicate; antique, traditional, or contemporary; classic or daring, or any combination of these elements. An experienced jeweler, like Thang So Ngo, can bring a custom design to life, and create a finished piece that is very captivating and dramatic. Please call or e-mail us about your custom design ideas!

Contracting a Custom Design

At Bailen Jewelers, we create handmade pieces in gold or platinum. We can produce jewelry from any photo or drawing. If you are interested, you should mail us (see the address below) a photo or drawing with the specifications of the order: ring size, 14K gold, 18K gold, or platinum for metal, etc. We will e-mail you an estimate based on the design and materials. If you agree, you should decide on the center stone and other stones to be included. You have two choices for your selection of the stones:

We can sell you one that fits your requirements for color, clarity, and weight-range. We will find a stone with those characteristics and quote you a price. If you buy it, we will have it certified for your protection. We will begin the project after getting a 50% deposit.
You can buy a stone somewhere else, and send it to us. It must be a certified stone. (Once we receive the stone, a deposit may not be necessary.)

We guarantee that our work will match the design specifications. If we make a mistake, we will fix it.

Our handmade designs are typically 50% less than famous designers' pieces which are manufactured. Please let us know if you would like your custom design to become a reality.